KASTAZWA_:
sur/la/route: Paris

The new year has started with a trip to Paris after twelve years since the last time I visited the city. This was one of the few times I went there purely as a visitor, since in the past I had the chance to live in the city in different stages of my life.

First in 2006, living out of temporary evening jobs, late in bed at night and up early in the morning to attend the "Verlaine language school" on the other side of the city, in the beautiful and charming Butte aux Cailles. Pere Lachaise was my first parisian headquarter and the hang outs at night in the 20 arrondissement when I was occasionally free from work are still marked in my memories.

Then in 2012, this time for different reasons while writing my dissertation on George Orwell, feeling like my life was related to the one of the author in Down and Out in Paris and London (1933). Back those days I was working as a nightwatcher in a luxurious hotel near the place the Clichy and I was living in the Batignolles area. Once all the check-ins were done and the service was ready for the day after, I enjoy reading Celine and falling asleep watching the National Geographic channel.

In my last visit I stayed in the studio flat of a friend in Montparnasse, sleeping on the couch between her art-works, mostly sculptures. My interests have changed in the meantime. Back in the years I still wasn't that much into yé-yé and french painters plus I had certain places to visit that back in the days I didn't know that they existed.

I. les Nymphéas

Is the beauty and the stillness of nature also a filter to apply to our own inner ecosystem or must nature be purely represented the way it is shown? Monet les Nymphéas is one of his most famous masterpieces, characterized for the size of the production (250 oil paintings) and the size of the paintings. Monet is one of the most famous painters of his generation and the one after which Impressionism was named because of one of his paintings (Impression, soleil levant 1872 musée Marmottan Monet). The works were made while the painter suffered from cataracts, affecting the perception of light and the colors and therefore the perception of the outside world. In fact, one of Monet's ambitions in relation to the countryside was to capture the changing of light and the change of time.

II. The father of us all

One of the most common features that distinguished Cezanne and Renoir was how they deal with shape. While the first was more rigorous in his works preferring a more geometric approach, the second focus more around harmony, preferring round shapes. Cezanne is considered a post-impressionist painter, a movement that tries to distance itself from impressionism, disregarding the emphasis on nature and preferring a more symbolic/abstract vision. Post-impressionism can also be seen as an extension of impressionism and a movement that led towards Cubism. Cezanne himself was seen as an innovator who contributed in taking painting towards avantgarde according to some of the most relevant painters of the XIX/XX century like Matisse or Picasso. *Cezanne and still nature

III. Renoir

Renoir’s paintings are maybe mostly associated with the feminine figure and the lifestyle of a very vibrant Paris in the second half of the XIX century. Dance at Le Moulin de la Galette (1876, musée d’Orsay) is one of the pictures that I personally associate most with the city of Paris, the Belle Epoque and the pleasure of living those days.

IV. Struck down by death in the moment of glory

Paul Guillaume was an inexperienced art dealer born in Paris and raised in a modest background. His interest for african art and sculpture started when he accidentally came across an african art statue inspecting a shipment of rubber from tyres and it is one of the things that distinguished him the most between art dealers, placing african art into modernism.

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Modigliani was an italian/sephardic jewish sculptor born from a wealthy family who soon fell into bankruptcy in Livorno. His interests towards painture and the avantgarde brought him to Paris in 1906 where he started to squat in a commune in Montmartre. Between the main things that brought together Guillaume and Modigliani there is a common interest from african art that probably led Guillaume to suggest his friend to focus more on painture rather than sculpture. Eventually Guillaume will become Modigliani art dealer helping him to reach a certain success but the interest was reciprocal and can be seen in some of Modigliani’s Guillaume portraits, where he defines his friend as “novo pilota”. Modigliani, despite being a heavy drinker, suffered from tuberculosis from a young age and had health issues during most of his life which affected his artwork and the way he sees life.

V. Verlaine, Mallarmé, Prévert, Vian et Gainsbourg

Boris Vian, a parisian musician, poet, writer and actor was a clear reference for Lucien Ginsburg (Serge Gainsbourg), one of the french biggest personality in the history of french music, who was able to take inspiration from french poetry and classical music (mostly Chopin) of the XIX century and bring all his art, his savoir-faire and his rebellious, self-destructive character to a more popular level. Vian, as musician, was very much inspired by jazz music and so was Gainsbourg. Les feuilles mortes, a french song written by Prévert and Kosma and subsequently taken to a huge success as standard jazz (thanks to Yves Montant) is another clear indicator of how french poetry and jazz music were going along the same path during this time. Gainsbourg was eternally inspired by Prévert and wrote La Chanson de Prévert clearly referring to the melancholic souvenir and the warm colors of the autumn leaves.

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Going back in time, french symbolism, a movement that rejected naturalism and realism towards a more symbolic, imaginative, spiritual approach with the poetes maudits Paul Verlaine and Stéphane Mallarmé as two of the most important figures, was also a main reference for Gainsbarre and one of his greatest success. Je suis venu te dire que je m’en vais was written following the sanglots long and the vent mauvais of his predecessor.

VI. Java

Java is a dance of Bal-musette (a bellow-blowns bagpipe) that became famous in Paris at the beginning of the XIX century. The style was adopted between Parisians and immigrants that settled in the Auvergnat bars in Paris (XIX arrondissement). In particular the style takes its influences from the italian mazurka who was seen as a form of popular dance that distanced itself from more elitist forms of dance like walz. Bal-musette was also relevant for the development of other forms of music like swing-jazz.

VII. L'Age d’Or

L'Age d’Or or Nouvelle Époque was a period of economic, cultural, intellectual and technological prosperity that affected French society at the end of the XIX century, partially a consequence of the II industrial revolution. The artistic production was rising during those years and painters like Claude Monet reached the peak of their celebrity during the Belle Epoque. Also Paul Cezanne experienced an artistic transition during these years, switching from the more traditional peinture en plein-air to a more geometrical/symbolic approach. The Art Nouveau movement also marked its presence during these years.

VIII. les Deux Magots

Apollinaire, Prévert, Hemingway, Breton, Sartre, de Beauvoir and the poetes maudits are only some of the artists who have attended les Deux Magots during the years. The place switched from surrealism to existentialism and was seen as the center of parisian cultural life in the XX century.

**Noir Desir, L'Appartement//Serge Gainsbourg-Birkin, Sea, Sex and Sun//Charles Aznavour, La Bohème//France Gall, Poupée de Cire, poupée de son//Chopin, Prelude in E minor (Op.28 No.4)**